fabrics

Only years of experience will give you the ability to recognize quality when it comes to cloth. A great cloth will give everything to a garment. In my opinion, today the English still make the finest woolens in the world and they are well worth the price. Ship to us directly from stocks in England or Europe and save.

We keep a small "in stock" selection of cloth that we include with our price. We strongly suggest that you build your own inventory of cloth with us. This will give you speedy production times as well as a remarkably well priced garment made with the finest English and Italian cloth.

The following is some information which may be helpful in your understanding of cloth. There are many misconceptions even amongst tailors and professionals as to what is what.


Merino wool ... the preferred breed of sheep, and the most numerous in the world. Regarded as having the finest and softest wool of any sheep. fleece is generally less than 24.5 microns in diameter. Medium merino wool is between 20.6-22.5 µm, fine medium is between 19.6-20.5 µm, fine is between 18.6-19.5 µm, superfine is between 17.6-18.5 and ultra fine wool is between 12.5 to 16.9. Ultra fine wool is suitable for blending with other exclusive fibers such as silk and cashmere.

Cashmere ... a word used for the fibers found on the under belly of a goat, and more commonly expected to be of a particular breed the Cashmere goat (Asiatic Falconeri) also known as Pashmina. Found mostly in Mongolia, and the Middle East. Producing an extra fine fiber of less than 19 microns. The name derives from an archaic spelling of Kashmir. It is sometimes incorrectly applied to any extremely soft wool regardless of origin.

Super 100's ... no one knows where the "super" classification came from, but it its believed that some English wool distributor first used it in the 1970's as a selling point. At the time, the grading system for wool went only up to 90's, the 100's classification was introduced as a marketing tool. As the years have gone by, we now have 110's, 120's ...and most recently, we have seen a supplier marketing a super 200's touted to be of fibers of 13 microns. Yet some of these fabrics are made so thin that they don't wear well and tear easily. Unfortunately, since there is no authority that will assure standards for these classifications, we suggest you rely on the knowledge of professional master tailors and your own good sense when making fabric selections. You can rest assured that the cloth we select for our clothes are carefully selected for not only the quality of fiber but also weave and consistency.

Rayon ... is produced from naturally occurring polymers and therefore it is not a synthetic fiber, but a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber. It is the fiber which Bemberg lining is made from. This is the lining that is universally preferred by tailors. Silk is rarely used as it dose not handle or wear as well.
Eye of the rock a recent expression for individually cutting the cloth. Prior to the 1900's patterns were not in use. Tailors would use a T square and plot a graph directly onto the cloth using the customers measurements. they would use a rock (chalk) to draw lines from the points they had plotted onto the cloth to make a pattern directly on to the cloth.